[ELECTRON] Proposed new club + Arduino meet up

Sun Jan 29 16:14:35 UTC 2012

Hi tom
how long do you think it will take to make one?

Kieran

On 29 January 2012 15:27, Thomas Parry <yrrapt at gmail.com> wrote:

> For making PCBs that's what I use, laser printer, inkjet photo paper,ink
> ferric chloride acid, although I've heard people been  successful with a
> clear etchant, can't remember it's name off the top of head.  UV exposure
> can also give finer tolerances but a lot more bother, ie. UV lamps.  With a
> simple board like this the toner transfer method will more than suffice.
>
> Is the LED just to alert that the heating bed's on? I think maybe sticking
> a thermistor in for temperature monitoring wouldn't go amiss.
>
> Tom
>
> On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Kieran Wyse <kieranwyse at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > What materials would we need to print a pcb board for the heat bed?
> >
> > As I understand it we need.
> >
> > Pcb board.
> > Laser printer - ( is there one at the electon club)
> > Glossy paper for the print.
> > An iron.
> > A cloth
> > Nitric acid.
> >
> > An led and the correct resistor.
> >
> > Have I left anything out. ( Or is there a better way to print boards)?
> > Kieran
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 23 January 2012 23:38, Thomas Parry <yrrapt at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > We could certainly have a go at making our own PCB heating bed. Will be
> > > pretty simple to do and there's hardy anything lost if it fails.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > > On Jan 23, 2012 8:26 PM, "Blair Thompson" <mail at justblair.co.uk>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > > As I understand it Clive. For glass the qualities that makes the
> > > > difference are:
> > > >
> > > >  * It presents a nice flat surface for the plastic to adhere to.
> > > >  * It does not warp when heated
> > > >  * Its pretty light when compared to steel or 6mm thick machine
> > aluminium
> > > >  * Its surface hard to damage when removing parts
> > > >  * Its cheap (£5 per 20cm^2)
> > > >
> > > > The high insulation is actually one of it's downsides.  It takes
> longer
> > > to
> > > > heat up than aluminium, and as it does not conduct heat so well, it
> > must
> > > be
> > > > heated evenly for both the quality of the print and to prevent the
> > glass
> > > > cracking.  Some people put heater/thin alu/glass as a combination.
> > > >
> > > > On 23/01/2012 18:51, Clive Mitchell wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> I think glass is often used because it's a good balance between
> laying
> > > >> down the first plastic and then separating the finished object
> > > >> afterwards.  It's also a good insulator, so that allows the heating
> > > >> element to be placed in direct contact.
> > > >>
> > > >> The PCB based heating plate looks neat.  By specifying a standard
> > > >> copper thickness and fine tuning the track width and length they
> seem
> > > >> to have come up with a very simple and consistent heating plate.
> > > >>
> > > >> On 23 January 2012 17:45, Kieran Wyse<kieranwyse at gmail.com>  wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >>> It is very likely we are going to make a heated bed( please forgive
> > my
> > > >>> stupidity if this is not the top and bottom plates). Brian has
> > > suggested
> > > >>> he
> > > >>> may be able to get hold of some metal sheet but for best results, I
> > > have
> > > >>> read, that a glass plate on top is good.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I don't think a decision has been made but it is likely we will go
> > the
> > > >>> thermistor route copper wire for the heat bed. If you had some
> lying
> > > >>> around
> > > >>> it would force us to make a decision:)
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>
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