[ELECTRON] Proposed new club + Arduino meet up

Sun Jan 29 15:38:25 UTC 2012

The Led is indeed for use as an alert.  There is no need for it.  I 
prefer to attach an led and resitor to my RAMPS board to work as an 
indicator LED

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12324  If you have a look at my front 
panel design on Thingiverse, you can see three LEDs showing the on state 
of the  Hot End, Heated Bed and Power circuits.  With the Marlin 
software it is cool as the Hot end flickers with the PWM telling you how 
aggressively the hot end is heating the filament.

As I recall, the RAMPS 1.4 board has status LEDs on the outputs as standard?

Any idea where to buy PCB in 20cm^2 Sheet?

On 29/01/2012 15:27, Thomas Parry wrote:
> For making PCBs that's what I use, laser printer, inkjet photo paper,
> ferric chloride acid, although I've heard people been  successful with a
> clear etchant, can't remember it's name off the top of head.  UV exposure
> can also give finer tolerances but a lot more bother, ie. UV lamps.  With a
> simple board like this the toner transfer method will more than suffice.
>
> Is the LED just to alert that the heating bed's on? I think maybe sticking
> a thermistor in for temperature monitoring wouldn't go amiss.
>
> Tom
>
> On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Kieran Wyse<kieranwyse at gmail.com>  wrote:
>
>> What materials would we need to print a pcb board for the heat bed?
>>
>> As I understand it we need.
>>
>> Pcb board.
>> Laser printer - ( is there one at the electon club)
>> Glossy paper for the print.
>> An iron.
>> A cloth
>> Nitric acid.
>>
>> An led and the correct resistor.
>>
>> Have I left anything out. ( Or is there a better way to print boards)?
>> Kieran
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 23 January 2012 23:38, Thomas Parry<yrrapt at gmail.com>  wrote:
>>
>>> We could certainly have a go at making our own PCB heating bed. Will be
>>> pretty simple to do and there's hardy anything lost if it fails.
>>>
>>> Tom
>>> On Jan 23, 2012 8:26 PM, "Blair Thompson"<mail at justblair.co.uk>  wrote:
>>>
>>>> As I understand it Clive. For glass the qualities that makes the
>>>> difference are:
>>>>
>>>>   * It presents a nice flat surface for the plastic to adhere to.
>>>>   * It does not warp when heated
>>>>   * Its pretty light when compared to steel or 6mm thick machine
>> aluminium
>>>>   * Its surface hard to damage when removing parts
>>>>   * Its cheap (£5 per 20cm^2)
>>>>
>>>> The high insulation is actually one of it's downsides.  It takes longer
>>> to
>>>> heat up than aluminium, and as it does not conduct heat so well, it
>> must
>>> be
>>>> heated evenly for both the quality of the print and to prevent the
>> glass
>>>> cracking.  Some people put heater/thin alu/glass as a combination.
>>>>
>>>> On 23/01/2012 18:51, Clive Mitchell wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I think glass is often used because it's a good balance between laying
>>>>> down the first plastic and then separating the finished object
>>>>> afterwards.  It's also a good insulator, so that allows the heating
>>>>> element to be placed in direct contact.
>>>>>
>>>>> The PCB based heating plate looks neat.  By specifying a standard
>>>>> copper thickness and fine tuning the track width and length they seem
>>>>> to have come up with a very simple and consistent heating plate.
>>>>>
>>>>> On 23 January 2012 17:45, Kieran Wyse<kieranwyse at gmail.com>   wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> It is very likely we are going to make a heated bed( please forgive
>> my
>>>>>> stupidity if this is not the top and bottom plates). Brian has
>>> suggested
>>>>>> he
>>>>>> may be able to get hold of some metal sheet but for best results, I
>>> have
>>>>>> read, that a glass plate on top is good.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't think a decision has been made but it is likely we will go
>> the
>>>>>> thermistor route copper wire for the heat bed. If you had some lying
>>>>>> around
>>>>>> it would force us to make a decision:)
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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